Avant Garde for the Environment

With global fast fashion brands like Shein, Zara, and H&M continually dominating the commercial garment industry, it's no wonder that sustainability in the fashion industry has become a growing concern. Contributing to over 8% of global carbon emissions and $100 in material value loss, the majority of fashion powerhouses continually deny acknowledging the alarming environmental damage of keeping up with microtrends (“Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry”). Where these brands are blind, independent designers are inspired and taking fresh, visionary approaches to sustainable garment creation.

The root of fast fashion and unsustainable practices within the fashion industry can be traced back to the industrial revolution in the 1760s. Prior to the revolution, “slow fashion” practices such as hiring skilled craftsmen and producing garments on a small scale were ubiquitous. The industrial revolution dramatically transformed the fashion industry; More efficient machinery and the introduction of mass production made garments cheaper and more accessible than they had ever been. (“A Comprehensive History of Sustainable Fashion”). While the appeal of this new technology was undeniable in the 18th century, it fostered irreversible environmental damage that continues to grow in severity. The production of garments made from cheap, synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon contributes immensely to the growing problem of deforestation, pile ups in landfills, and microplastic pollution. Today, these practices are responsible for nearly 10% of annual global carbon emissions and 20% of global wastewater (Algamal).

The term “sustainable fashion” first emerged in the 90s, but the concept can be traced back to the 60s. As counterculture movements like the hippie and punk movement gained traction, activists like Katherine Hamnett started stressing the need for more sustainable and ethical means of garment production (“A Comprehensive History of Sustainable Fashion”). These movements helped pave the way for fashion sustainability efforts in the 21st century.

Emerging and established designers have found striking means of combatting the environmental cost of the fashion industry. Originally from Lithuania, designer Dovile Riebschlager moved to Chicago with nothing but 300 dollars in her pocket and an intense passion for design. Despite facing extreme culture shock and financial hardships in the states, Dovile’s designs quickly caught the attention of both local and international creatives. Since then, her extravagant collections thematizing functionality and sustainability have been featured in renowned magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar and have debuted globally at Paris and New York fashion week.

Dovile doesn’t recall the exact moment when she became intrigued with fashion, but rather feels that her passion for design was innate.

“As long as I can remember, I was drawing all kinds of figures with very elaborate gowns. I constantly redrew them with every detail. That’s how I was,” says Dovile.

Dovile’s concept sketches

After graduating high school in the late 80s, she attended university in Lithuania where she studied textile arts and chemical engineering. Fascinated with the process of fabric makeup and garment production, Dovile’s education became a strong source of inspiration for sustainable collections later in her career. Despite this, she was forced to acknowledge that these studies didn’t fulfill her creative spirit.

Instead of going back to school for fashion design, Dovile started creating small pieces with her own homemade fabrics while simultaneously working full-time in Lithuania’s largest textile factory, Utenos Trikotazas. Hoping to update the company’s clothing line, a representative at the factory approached her and asked for samples of her designs. While Dovile agreed reluctantly, the company offered her a prestigious design partnership and helped establish her as a respectable designer.

“I had no idea what I was doing,” said Dovile. “I immediately went to be a designer for the biggest factory in Lithuania. I had just barely got my diploma!”

Dovile experimenting with fabric manipulation

Still exploring her identity as a designer, it was through an unexpected interaction with a close friend that her values and unique style began to take shape. Dovile’s friend, a ballet dancer, asked her to design one of her stage costumes. Dovile went on to create costumes that were not only striking in their beauty, but also fully functional.

“I believe that experience got the foundation for what I’m doing today,” says Dovile. “My philosophy was always that the clothes, no matter how they look, have to be comfortable. My clothes are for living and dancing.”

This was a pivotal moment in Dovile’s career, and taking inspiration from her line of functional costumes, she debuted her first collection in 2016.

Dovile’s designs at NYFW

Now residing in Chicago, Dovile’s designs have evolved into extravagant representations of the delicate balance between art, practicality, natural science, and sustainable materiality. Dovile’s inspiration for many of her designs comes mainly from observations of the world around her. Her collection “Reflections”, showcased at New York Fashion Week in 2021, featured her unique experimentation with 3-dimensional forms inspired by her appreciation of the natural world. Inspired by reflections of air bubbles underwater, Dovile stated that the collection was a “cross-section of art and science”.

Dovile’s iconic 3-D avant gardism have become her one of her signature creative attributes

Dovile’s commitment to sustainability is a testament to her fusion of science and art. She prides herself on creating and dying her own fabrics as well as utilizing high-quality and eco-friendly fabrics. Dovile’s upcoming collection, showing this month at Erlendur Fashion Week, will highlight her technical strengths in working with eco-friendly materials such as natural silk and wool. She also teased a future collection that will feature garments made completely from trash and discarded fabric scraps. For one garment, she emptied her trash bin next to the sewing machine and created a coat that was simply “spectacular”.

“Nothing goes out of my studio,” says Dovile. “I will use every square inch, and every part of that square inch, of fabric.”

While the use of recycled and renewable materials certainly benefits the environment in their biodegradability and reduced carbon footprint, Dovile elaborated on the unique sensory experience associated with eco-friendly materials, particularly silk:

“The fabric has a sound, a smell, and a touch. You just squeeze it by your ear, and it sounds like fresh snow. It calms your nervous system, it cools you, it helps you fall asleep. It’s absolute luxury; It’s magic.”

One of Dovile’s designs from her SS20 NYFW made from natural silk

Despite her inspiring steps to fight the effects of an industry priding itself on primarily fast fashion, Dovile admits that it is virtually impossible to employ methods that are completely sustainable as an independent designer. Her signature bubbles, for example, are made out of polyester, a synthetic fiber. Creating 3-dimensional forms out of natural fabrics like silk and leather would be incredibly labor-intensive, not to mention their high cost per yard. Dovile hopes to transition fully to the utilization of natural textiles when she has more sufficient funding.

Dovile’s transparency is a reminder that sustainability in the fashion industry is not simply a means of making clothes from eco-friendly fabrics or recycled materials; It requires time, money, and a unique discipline, some of which many small designers find themselves lacking. Nevertheless, the eco-friendly efforts of designers like Dovile are quickly being popularized by a new generation of young consumers. Despite fast fashion brands like Zara and H&M dominating the fashion industry, large corporations like Levi’s, Patagonia, and Reformation have taken strides to minimize their carbon footprint and encourage other brands to assess their role in environmental harm.

The fashion industry is far from sustainable, but the efforts of designers like Dovile to prioritize sustainable means of garment production serve as a stellar example to all creatives. Whether established or sewing their first garment, designers around the globe can help foster change by re-evaluating the environmental impact of their design methods and using minute, sustainable changes as a source of creative inspiration.

Links to Artist Profiles:

Dovile's Fashions:

Citations:

Algamal, Armanos. “New Shocking Facts about the Impact of Fast Fashion on Our Climate.” Oxfam, Oxfam GB, 28 Aug. 2019, www.oxfam.org.uk/oxfam-in-action/oxfam-blog/new shocking-facts-about-the-impact-of-fast-fashion-on-our-climate/.

“A Comprehensive History of Sustainable Fashion.” State of Matter, State of Matter, 3 Jan. 2024, stateofmatterapparel.com/blogs/som-blog/a-comprehensive-history-of-sustainable fashion?srsltid=AfmBOoph4UsAPG9A7eK7N5jZ1szJbXzPeSbM8wo6GcEDOkbQJgLsO MeK.

“Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry.” Geneva Environment Network, UN Environment Programme, 5 Apr. 2024, www.genevaenvironmentnetwork.org/resources/updates/sustainable-fashion/.

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