Were women always allowed to participate in sports? What role did women play in sports
throughout the 1900’s? How has women’s sportswear evolved throughout past centuries? In
light of the 2024 Olympics, I have recently found myself questioning the history of activewear.
Curious to learn more, I was eager to explore Palais Galliera’s latest installation, Fashion on the
Move. This exhibit masterfully transports visitors through time by showcasing garments that
are representative of the modernization of athletic apparel over time.
Since 1977, Palais Galliera, otherwise known as the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, has operated as a museum devoted exclusively to fashion in Paris, France. In conjunction with the 2024 Olympics, the museum’s current curation intends to shed light upon the function of clothing for physical activities, the relationship between femininity and movement, and hardships women have faced as a result of sportswear's evolution. Considering that the Olympics are set to take place in Paris, thus inspiring an increase in the public’s interest towards athletic attire, there is truly no better time than now to showcase such a compelling collection.
As the 2024 Paris Olympics
approach, Palais Galliera’s
Fashion on the Move
demonstrates insightful
parallels, as well as distinct
contrasts, between women’s
sportswear from the end of
the 19th century to today. In
my opinion, the exhibit was
overall successful in its
attempt to provide the
audience with a general
understanding of all that
female athletes have
endured in relation to attire.
The display expertly paints a
picture of the modernization
of women’s sportswear from
the late 1800’s to 2024 by
presenting the curation in
chronological order. This
allows one to visualize styles
that have changed rapidly
between decades, as well as
alterations that took many
years to reach their full
potential.
The sequential nature of
Fashion on the Move also
works to highlight the most
quintessential instances of
change in women’s
sportswear. When taking a
step back to admire the
curation of over 200 pieces,
I witnessed the exhibit’s
emphasis upon several
monumental events. This
includes the controversial
creation of cycling trousers
for women in the late 1800’s,
the shortening and
narrowing of silhouettes in
the 1910’s, and the invention
of swimsuits that were
functional, yet more
revealing than ever, in the
1920’s. During the 1930’s and
1940’s, the exhibit suggested
that women experienced a
return to femininity, and
Christian Dior’s “New Look”
contributed to the decline of
less-constrictive alterations
that had been made decades
prior.
By the 1950’s, ready-to-wear
clothing had taken over and
silhouettes remained
feminine. In contrast, the
1960’s were revolutionary for
women’s sportswear as the
miniskirt was introduced and
clothing became more
revealing and less
conservative. In the 70’s,
major sportswear brands
emerged and it was finally
socially acceptable for
women to workout in
bodysuits and pants. A
“fitness craze” emerged in
the 1980’s, which
popularized leotards, nylon,
legwarmers, sweatsuits, and
spectacular workout
ensembles. During the 90’s,
fashion continued to
become more high-tech,
minimalistic, and
comfortable, and the rise of
everyday street/sportswear
began. From the turn of the
21st century to today,
athletic attire has continued
to dominate the market as
sneakers are now worn by
the majority of the
population, athleisure has
become the new normal, and
fashion houses frequently
collaborate with global
sporting brands.
Furthermore, the message of
Fashion on the Move was
reinforced by the creative
decision to present everyday
clothing adjacent to pieces
designed for athletic
purposes. For example,
women of the late 1800’s
were expected to wear
dresses with corseted
waistlines and frilly skirts in
their daily lives. However, for
activities such as cycling,
hiking, and horse riding, the
first edition of women’s
trousers, oversized bloomers
with cuffs at the calf, were
introduced. Placing casual
dresses besides athletic
pants that were designed to
give a dress-like appearance
demonstrates the fact that
women were eager for
pieces that allowed them to
move more freely.
During my visit, I found that the displays were incredibly informative and thorough. The chronological nature of
the exhibit is what allowed
the curators to successfully
distinguish between drastic
changes and subtle
alterations in women’s
sportswear. Each decade
received its own section in
the museum, and several of
the most quintessential
garments from a given time
period were illuminated
under spotlights. The
contrast between the dimly
lit black gallery and the
bright lights shining upon
each garment was very seductive, and it was evident
that the curators aspired to
draw as much attention as
possible to the clothing.
Additionally, all of the
garments were labeled
accordingly, large printed
signs contained a general
synopsis of each decade, and
smaller signs detailed
intriguing facts about specific
pieces.
As strategically placed as
most of the signs were, I felt
that the legibility of the
smaller signs was negatively
impacted by how tiny they
were. On more than one
occasion I found myself
straining to read the
contents of these signs, and I
am of the opinion that it
would be beneficial to
reprint them onto larger
boards.
Furthermore, the
consecutive order of the
collection overall
contributed to the
exhibition’s mission,
however, I was slightly
critical of where certain
decades were placed.
Although I enjoyed feeling
invited to explore and roam
at my own leisure, the exhibit lacked a sense of
direction and I often found
myself arriving at decade
sections in the wrong order. In
the end, I believe that
incorporating signage with
arrows leading one towards the intended route would
decrease any element of
confusion without
compromising the
minimalism of the gallery.
Moreover, I felt that there
was a disproportionate
amount of coverage
between the 20th and 21st
centuries. The 1900’s were
covered extensively, while
the past 24 years, a time in
which sportswear has
prevailed more than ever
before, lacked the same
amount of devotion. I would
encourage the museum
curators to pull more pieces
from prominent brands and
dive deeper into the
integration of sportswear
within daily life.
Palais Galleria’s comparison of
ensembles designed as early as
the 1800's to pieces that are
popular today puts into
evidence how drastically
women’s sportswear has
changed over time. Perfectly
planned to coincide with the
2024 Olympics, Fashion on the
Move successfully invites one
to consider the relationship
between clothing and the
human physique throughout
the 20th and 21st centuries.
Furthermore, the gallery
provides one with an
understanding of how women’s
sportswear has become
adapted for physical activity,
increasingly masculine, and
integral within everyday life. By
showcasing garments reflective
of the zeitgeist for each
decade, utilizing concise and
straightforward signage, and
taking the audience on a
chronological journey, the
exhibition leaves an impression
that is sure to stand the test of
time.
