Rihanna in Marc Jacobs

Superfine : A Night of Black Style and Menswear

On a rainy first monday in May, The Costume Institute rolled out the flower-speckled midnight blue carpet to celebrate its newest exhibition - Superfine : Tailoring Black Style. Drawing designers, stars, and tycoons into the Metropolitan Museum, fashion’s biggest night celebrated black excellence in both design and history. Alongside Andrew Bolton, Monica L. Miller, the pen behind Slaves to Fashion : Black Dandyism and Styling of Black Diasporic Identity curated the exhibit. 

The theme focused on dandyism, as both a tool for survival and expression. Fashion is an outer projection or protection of the self. Acknowledging its link to institutions, social class, power, stature, and war helps to understand its relationships with the black community. The black dandy materialized to combat and provoke the expectation of being lesser, as assumed through the extension of the dress. Reclaiming codes associated with wealth, the dandy aims to outstyle the provoker and showcase their worth through the symbols of refinement and stature they are held to. Through tailoring and meticulous design, the dandy in all forms is a dynamic mode that forwards self-actualization. Historically, it allowed for resilience, transformation, and transcendence within the black community. 

It continues to do so today through modern figures who inspire excellence and creation. At its core, dandyism is sartorial experimentation. Harnessing the lens of one who refuses to fit into a mold, it does so by taking the mold to an extreme. Hyperbolic, the dandy persona lives at the striking intersection between individualism, clothing, culture, and imagination. Whether defined as the etymological root as an 18th-century label for the obsessive male dresser or shoppers at Dapper Dan’s in Harlem, the mythos of the dandy come to fruition in various facets of black style throughout history. 

The 2025 Met Gala marked a significant turn by choosing to celebrate menswear particularly, with suiting, headwear, brooches, canes, and tailoring as common denominators. A highlight of this year’s event was the celebration of black designers including Wales Bonner, Maxwell Osborn, Christopher John Rogers, Thebe Magugu, Ruth E. Carter, Bianca Saunders, Pharell for Louis Vuitton, Paul Tazewell, and more. The work of legendary stylists such as Law Roach, Solange Franklin Reed, Mickey Freeman, and Chaise Dennis was also on display.

This year, Anna Wintour and Vogue published four covers for their May edition to accompany. Each issue features a modern black dandy cover star (Pharell, A$AP Rocky, Lewis Hamilton, and Coleman Domingo). This selected quad served as co-chairs of this year’s event. The “Tailored to You” dress code emphasized menswear and custom tailoring. The theme provided ample room for reinterpretation. However, dandyism is no small effort. The easiest task is to dress the part. But to truly embody dandyism, one has to find that internally - à la the late André Leon Talley, whose passing was a major catalyst for the exhibition’s creation. While there was a slight famine of beauty (André we love you), here are some looks that stood out to me as superfine, down to every last stitch. 

Lewis Hamilton in Wales Bonner

Hamilton wore a Harlem Nights-inspired ivory tailcoat ensemble with layered white-on-white textures, adorned with cowrie shells and lapel embellishments. A sash and brooch added depth, drawing from Harlem Renaissance elegance. Thelook balanced regal tailoring with Afro-Caribbean cultural symbols and codes of the English designer.

Diana Ross in Ugo Mozie

The iconic Diana Ross made a stunning return to the Met Gala after 22 years in a custom gown with personal weight. Designed by Ugo Mozie, the glamorous white feathered ensemble was adorned with hand-sewn crystals and beads, featuring a dramatic train, which was embellished inside with her children's and grandchildren’s names, including Evan Ross, who accompanied her.

Teyana Taylor in Ruth E. Carter / Marc Jacobs / David Yurman

Taylor channeled a cinematic pimp aesthetic with a rich rouge velvet cape and sharp suiting. A feathered hat and commanding posture gave her the energy of a 1970s icon meets pirate. The look was cocky, decadent, and theatrical. Herlook started the carpet with a bang.

Zendaya in Louis Vuitton & Bvlgari

Zendaya’s crisp white Louis Vuitton suit number was an ode to Bianca Jagger. Accented with bold Bvlgari accessories, this polished look was simple and androgynous. The tailored fit paralleled the theme and provided a modern edge. The hat garners extra points.

Tessa Thompson in Prabal Gurung

Thompson wore an exaggerated bell-shaped skirt with a tight, contoured bodice in dramatic contrast. The silhouette referenced historical fashion with avant-garde proportions in the silhouette. Elegant and surreal, it was both feminine and fantastical.

Coco Jones in Manish Malhorta

Coco Jones made a striking impression with a finely tailored, low-cut cream-colored suit jacket adorned with lace embroidery and pearls. The pearly ensemble echoed the gala’s focus on high-end menswear with just the right amount of extra adornment.

Hunter Schafer in Prada

Hunter Schafer turned heads in a sculptural suit that catered to the structure. The outfit featured layered textures and a monochromatic palette, creating a striking visual impact. Her look was both avant-garde and ethereal, showcasing her one-of-a-kind fashion sensibility.

Doja Cat in Marc Jacobs

Doja Cat embraced maximalism in a sharply tailored bodysuit with extreme shoulders and hips, inspired by Grace Jones and 1940s zoot suits. The exaggerated form was a bold play on gender and proportion. It was daring, sculptural, and stylish.

Janelle Monáe in Thom Browne

Monáe wore a boxy rectangular cape with a trompe l’oeil pattern, playing with visual illusion and structure. A half-and-half bag and sharp tailoring added contrast. With jewelry by Jonathan Raksha and a Vacheron Constantin watch, the look was intellectual and striking.

Jeremy O. Harris in Balmain

Harris wore a Balmain look that reinterpreted and satirized the image of the Black dandy. The ensemble was decadent, exaggerated, and rich with symbolism. It used fashion as commentary—both reverent and rebellious.

Jodie Turner-Smith in Burberry

Turner-Smith stunned in a red three-piece Burberry suit topped with a cocked hat, exuding bold glamour. The tailoring was crisp and commanding, with gender play at its core. Her presence radiated confidence and vintage power.

LaKeith Stanfield in Ferragamo & Didris Jewelry

Stanfield’s Ferragamo look was cool and minimal, elevated with ornate Didris jewelry. Earthy tones and sleek tailoring gave off a grounded yet regal aura. It was understated, soulful, and stylishly subversive.

Jennie Kim - Chanel

This diva had one of the best looks of the night. Chanel's history of applying masculine codes to womenswear is instrumental to the success of this piece. As a Chanel ambassador, Jennie embraced the essence of Coco Chanel - the woman who popularized pants and menswear. This look will be pinned to my mood boards.

Olivier Rousteing - Balmain

The Balmain prodigy brought out the codes of his resident houses’ designs with his stupendous gold accented suit and striking sewing machine bag.

Dapper Dan in Dapper Dan

The dandy who led all other dandies. The man behind logo mania and bringing luxury brands to the Harlem and music community, Dapper Dan is a legend who came to an event that could not exist without his legacy. Dapper Dan’s story of revolt, resilience, and success is a one-of-a-kind tale that inspired a whole group of kids to chase their dreams and stunt on everyone. A true New York Hustler, Dapper Dan’s ode to Harlem and his roots was encapsulated in his zoot suit inspiration. Incorporating symbols such as the Sankofa (in Ghana - to reach out and get), Dapper Dan paid a nod to the culture that shaped him and his instrumental role in bringing together a community through expression. As he says in his own words “The Dandy wears a narrative”.

Jeff Goldblum in Wales Bonner

Always dapper and dandy, Jeff donned Wales Bonner and pulled it off as only Jeff Goldblum can. Jeff carried himself with his absolute swagger and certified himself as the internet’s favorite dad/daddy. Meticulously tailored, his Mongolian-fur, double-breasted suit was paired with opulent Malono Blahnik opera shoes. Men take notes.

Christian Latchman

9-5 Job during the day, the Face of the Superfine Exhibit by Night, Christian is the Gen-Z model everyone should follow. As an emerging artist and up-and-coming fashion figure, Christian was not afraid to push boundaries combining dress and suit for a unique statement befitting of being the face of the whole thing. This look reminded me of when Kid Kudi wore a wedding dress.

Khaby Lame in BOSS

The social media zeitgeist made moves in his slick interpretation of dandyism. Rocking multiple pocket watches, Khaby made a statement in his smooth criminal-esque grey suit with a debonair hat and luxurious white tie. The side-draped partial trench accent was impeccable. His look is approved to go TikTok viral.

Walton Goggins in Thom Browne

Unmistakably Thom Browne, Walton Goggins’s outfit was as eclectic and playful as the actor himself. Twirling about in his ensemble, he embraced the event’s spectacle and had fun on the red carpet. According to the designer, Walton wore an inside out’ overcoat which featured tonal wool suiting, a pleated skirt, black double duchess silk, and exposed canvas along with hand stitches and shoulder pads.

Edward Enninful and Serena Williams in Edward Enninful for Moncler

Edward Enninful, the former British Vogue editor-in-chief, attended the Met Gala in a timeless tailored black tuxedo, embodying classic menswear elegance. His guest was Serena Williams, whose Enninful x Moncler EE72 turquoise gown and puffer cape glided over the carpet. Paired with Fred Leighton diamonds, her gown and ‘dandy’ for the night were the picture of glamour. The copper hair was an amazing touch.

Lauryn Hill

Lauren brought butter yellow with a twist to the carpet. In a sea of grisaille, she stood out in her sculptural suit and cocoa tie. Choosing the bright hue and elegant menswear, she embodied the theme’s emphasis on tailoring and masculine black style.

A$AP Rocky in AWGE

A$AP Rocky co-chaired the 2025 Met Gala, embracing the theme "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style." He wore a custom black AWGE suit and a Marmot jacket, complemented by a diamond-covered glock umbrella, symbolizing his recent legal victory. His ensemble honored Harlem heritage and Black dandyism, aligning with the event's celebration of Black fashion history.

Anok Yai in Thom Browne

Yai's sculptural Thom Browne creation with meticulous tailoring and gilded elements blended high fashion and abstract art. A dramatic silhouette and dark tones gave her a statuesque presence.

Cynthia Erivo in Givenchy

Erivo's look featured a high, sculpted collar and corseted blazer with triangular panels and red-silver embellishments. The Construction was architectural yet fluid, blending softness with strength. Paired with bold boots, the ensemble was futuristic and fierce.

Rihanna in Marc Jacobs

Rihanna is pregnant and came to shut down the carpet. There is never anything chill when Ms. Fenty meets the red carpet. As usual, Rihanna did the whole I'm Fashionably Late Thing and added a deconstructed Marc Jacobs number to her roster of coolest “maternity” fits ever. Her after-party look was even slicker. Marc Jacobs simultaneously made her look dandy and feminine. With nods to the greats of the past, this great made the crowd go mad.

ANDRÉ 3000 in Burberry and Cartier Jewelry

He carried a piano on his back. Enough said.

Links


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